With its signature bitterness, leung cha (“cooling tea”) may not be everyone’s beverage of choice, but it has long been valued for restoring balance to the body according to traditional Chinese medicine principles.

The first herbal tea shop is thought to have been established in Guangzhou in 1828, and people in southern China often quaff the drink to counteract the hot and humid climate. By dispelling excess “internal heat”, the infusion is believed to alleviate various ailments and improve health.

Herbal tea shops are more than just places to buy a drink in Hong Kong, often serving as neighbourhood gathering spots, where residents can rest, chat and socialise.

Cheung Hak-ting, owner of the Ching Ho Tong Chinese herbal tea shop in Mong Kok, serving a customer in 1983. Photo: SCMP Archives

Agnes Wong Kin-yee, co-owner of the Wong Lo Kat herbal tea company, packing tea bags in 1991. Photo: SCMP Archives

Hong Kong’s last governor Chris Patten sipping herbal tea at a shop in Central, in 1993. Photo: SCMP Archives