Thailand is struggling to restore its crucial tourism industry to pre-pandemic levels [Courtesy of Vijitra Duangdee]

At Railay Beach, an Instagrammers’ favourite known for its wide, warm sands bookended by limestone cliffs, 23-year-old Londoner Becca sips coffee and savours the return of Thai backpacking following a recent easing of entry requirements.

“We saved our money, quit work and travelled here,” she told Al Jazeera of her months-long trip with friends, which was impossible during the last two years lost to the pandemic.

Thailand was one of the first places in the world to reopen to tourists late last year, but under a confusing web of rules – including seven-day quarantine – travellers complained the small print failed to match the big announcements.

Meanwhile, horror stories of people testing positive on arrival and being shunted into 14-day quarantine – paid for from their own pocket – bounced around travel blogs and Twitter.

On May 1, Thailand dropped its “Test & Go” quarantine procedure, allowing vaccinated visitors to enter freely, while an onerous pre-departure registration scheme known as the “Thailand Pass” is likely to also be abandoned within weeks.

Authorities hope the result will be between 5 and 15 million overseas visitors by year-end, as the Southeast Asian country prepares to declare the coronavirus endemic and throws open the door to a travel-starved world.

n Railay beach, bars and restaurants already hum with backpackers, many knocking back beers to a loud techno soundtrack as the sun dips behind the ocean.

As far as Becca is concerned, the island-hopping route across Koh Phangan, Koh Samui, Phi Phi and Koh Tao is firmly back in business.

“It’s so cheap here, compared with where we’re from,” she said. “It’s such a treat to have a meal for two pounds.”

A 10-minute walk to the more rugged east side of the coast, tour operator Naren Fangkwa is less enthusiastic as he laments the continued absence of wealthier tourists to one of Thailand’s top destinations.

Naren believes many high-end visitors have been frightened off by the kingdom’s constantly changing entry rules.

“Since borders opened, visitors are mainly young people like uni students and backpackers who don’t really buy tour packages,” he said.

Many restaurants on Naren’s side of Railay get by on handfuls of customers, while several others remain shut, victims of a pandemic that has smashed one of the country’s most crucial industries.

Thailand’s tourism remains well below pre-pandemic levels when it attracted nearly 40 million people and generated more than $60bn in revenue [Courtesy of Vijitra Duangdee]

Despite the banner headlines about reopening, tourism is still far below pre-pandemic levels, when it attracted nearly 40 million people and generated more than $60bn of revenue, accounting for up to a fifth of the kingdom’s gross domestic product.

Last month, forward bookings for 2022 showed Thailand had reached 25 percent of normal levels, compared with 72 per cent and 65 percent each for Singapore and the Philippines, respectively.

Nevertheless, the kingdom expects those who do visit between now and year-end – the majority from Europe, the United States, the Middle East and India – to spend at least 630 billion baht ($18bn) in the country, providing a much-needed boost to incomes as inflation chews into purchasing power.